There's a Reason

Path of TC Winston thru the Bligh Waters

Like most, I've always had a sense that things happen for a reason.  Today, I am more convinced than ever of that.  Our plans were to be in the village of Savusavu on the island of Vanua Levu, just north of our present location by February 15th, for the remainder of the cyclone season.  A minor auxiliary motor issue kept us here in Port Denarau.  Savusavu is recognized as the best cyclone refuge in Fiji.  We made reservations at the Copra Shed Marina for a special cyclone mooring ball.  The mooring is helix bolted to the bedrock bottom of the bay with all chain rode leading to the ball.  Tropical Cyclone Winston had already passed us approx. 250nm on the west side of the main island as a Category 1 cyclone.  Therefore, we were anxious to get to Savusavu.  Over the next 10 days, Winston ended up going east then north up to Tonga and then decided to head back towards Fiji.  At that time, it looked like it was going to be a direct hit and we were the target. As Winston was heading back, it became a Category 5 cyclone.   On February 19th at high tide, 34 boats made their way up the channel into the mangroves.  All dropped their bow and stern anchors and then tied all four corners of their respective boats to the mangrove trees.  The air was very still, hot, moist and sticky, but we were all safely tucked in for the night.  

Winston from Space

Saturday morning we stripped Long Windid of all canvas, solar panels, headsail, etc. to reduce windage.  More adjustment were then made to the mooring lines before the storm, which was to hit later that evening.  At high tide the boats would move freely within the confines of the lines holding them in place.  However, when the tide would move out, the mono hull boats with their deep keels were left high and dry in the soft mud leaning on their sides.  Tension on the lines needed constant adjusting.  Six o'clock Saturday evening, the winds began to build quickly along with heavy rain.  As the evening turned into night, the winds grew even stronger and Long Windid began to vibrate and shake violently during the high tide cycle.  The howling of the wind thru the mangrove trees and thru the rigging of the boats was deafening.  As Long Windid started to resettle back into the mud, Dan would have to leave the cabin to make his way outside in the wind and rain to adjust the mooring lines.  The adjusting of the lines was an hourly routine.  With Long Windid planted on the mud bottom she was firmly in place and nothing was going to move her.  Inside the boat, rest was almost impossible because we were literally sleeping on the walls of the boat.  Winds in the protection of the mangroves reportedly hit 92mph and were clocked at 119mph at the top of the masts.  We all expected the event to last anywhere from 12-18 hours.  Fortunately, it lasted only seven hours.  Winston raced through the Bligh Waters at twice the speed most cyclones travel.  Sunday morning the winds were back to normal, but the group had to stay in the mangroves another day due to the damage and unrest at the marina.  It took the marina staff a full day to get things back in order to allow us back in.   Once we got word to head back we were out at the next high tide.  During all this, there was not a single scratch on any of the 34 boats.  A few of us had incidents with our dinghies turning over.  No doubt through all the destruction, internet service was down.  Finally, when it did come back, we learned that Savusavu was hit directly and half of the 56 boats were either sunk or destroyed.  Winston is now considered the strongest cyclone in recorded history to make landfall in the South Pacific.  If it wasn't for the motor issue we had, Dan and I would have been right in the heart of all this devastation.  Thus, the reason I believe more than ever, things happen for a reason.  We were all so fortunate to get through this event unharmed.  Unfortunately, there are so many people that weren't as lucky.  Many Fijians right here in Denarau have lost their homes and all their valuables.  Dan and I have joined "Sea Mercy" which is an organization that helps with disaster relief.  We will be taking Long Windid to Makogai Island, population of about 130 people and 120 miles from here to bring food, clothing, and medical supplies. Video of the Island of Makogai after TC Winston Because we have the capability to make large amounts of water for a boat our size, we will be making water at anchor to supply the village.  This is such a disaster, but more than that, it's very personal to both of us.  The people of Fiji have been so wonderful to us that we are hopeful we can help them in some small way.   Planning on leaving here Wednesday with other boats and probably going to make three or four trips before we are relieved by other vessels. This is not going to be an easy task for the Fijians to recover from.  They have months and months of re-building to do to get themselves somewhat back to normal.

For those of you still following us, "thank you" all for your concern and prayers.  We know it worked for us.

It's Harder to Leave

What a difference a few months can make in the South Pacific cyclone belt.  While Dan and I were making arrangements to fly back to the States for the holidays, all of our cruising friends in Fiji were busy preparing their boats to sail south to either New Zealand or Australia, with a careful eye on the weather. One reason they would leave Fiji was because it was predicted to be a volatile cyclone season due to El Nino.  

Port Denarau Marina

Port Denarau Marina usually has a very long waiting list during this time of year.  The place is buzzing with tourist activities, yachties with last minute chores and the Fijian children running around excited to be off from school for summer vacation.  Restaurants along the waters' edge are always packed with out-of-towners enjoying their meals while listening to live music that would play well into the night. The marina was full to capacity with Mega yachts and smaller cruising sailboats.  Outside the harbor, is a shallow, rolling anchorage where dozens of boats waited to either begin their voyage south or for an opening inside the harbor. The weather during early November was hot but bearable with generally a cool breeze off of the South Pacific Ocean. 

We had a wonderful time in the States visiting with everyone and appreciate the hospitality by our friends and family.  As most of you know, Dan being rather odd, doesn't do "sleep-overs" very well.  This was his "first" and  I'm proud of him.  He held up very well.   Of course the fact that everyone made it so comfortable and easy for us had a lot to do with it.  "THANK YOU" all.

Jack's Birthday Party while in the states

  

After two months, we returned to Fiji to find the marina and the harbor totally empty except for a few die hard cruisers who decided as we did, to stay and explore the rest of Fiji during a more casual and relaxing time of year.  Weather however, is much hotter and the humidity is far greater. We are now in the middle of Fijis summer months.  The children are now back in school and the few restaurants that remain open, close early.  Dan and I decided to take advantage of this slow period and have a few repairs done on the boat.  Long Windid was hauled out of the water and had a new cutlass bearing installed with new bottom paint.  She has been polished and waxed and the headsail has a new UV protective cover.  In early April, the standing rigging will be replaced with new Hamma X stainless steel rope wire and new turnbuckles.  All this in preparation for the trip to Hawaii in early May.  Meanwhile, we are just waiting for "Winston", a tropical cyclone that developed just north of us 10 days ago and circled the western portion of Fiji.  It's now dancing east of us in the Kingdom of Tonga.  "Winston" is projected to make its' way back to Fiji later this week.   We are now pinned down here in Port Denarau unable to move until it passes or dies out.  As hard as it is to get into Port Denarau, it seems even harder to get out.  I can think of worse places to be.