Tropical Cyclone ZENA Update

There was a collective sigh of relief Thursday morning (Fiji time) in Port Denarau, and I would image across Fiji.  The night before, Zena, a category 3 Cyclone was bearing down on the island of Vitti Levu where we are presently moored.  Luckily, Zena started to run out of gas and began to dissipate while turning further south away from our location.  All is well on Long Windid.  Hopefully this will be the last one of the season.

Cyclone Warning Flags

Let's Say, Savusavu

It's like deja vu all over again.  Cyclone warning flags over Port Denarau are once again flying in strong winds signaling a Category 1 cyclone.  It has developed just north of us and could be headed our way.  Nobody around here is in any mood to take an "El Nino" year lightly.  There are more boats in the harbor now then there were for the last cyclone event two months ago.  It's probably because of the remarkable success we all experienced tied up in the mangroves.  Well, if we have to go through another cyclone, then Dan and I are very glad we are here rather than in let's say, Savusavu.  

Copra Shed Marina

After our services in Makogai, we sailed to Savusavu and spent two weeks there.  Savusavu was the reported cyclone refuge of Fiji, where we had planned to spend the rest of the cyclone season before TC Winston.  Remarkably, the quaint little town of Savusavu and the surrounding areas came through the cyclone with little or no visible damage.  On the other hand, it was the boats in the mooring field that were hit the hardest. During Winston, boats on cyclone moorings were bombarded by runaway boats that broke free from their mooring balls and traveled uncontrollably thru the mooring area taking other boats with them before either sinking or washed ashore on surrounding reefs.  

Tangled boats

All but two of the 56 boats in the mooring area were damaged in some way.  A cruising friend of ours who was on a cyclone mooring ball, spent three long and grueling hours with his engine running at full RPM dodging other boats (most of which were unattended) that were dragging through the mooring field and/or broke away altogether.  He said it was horrifying trying to defend their floating home from oncoming boats in cyclone conditions.  The rain and wind was so strong he and his wife had to wear swim masks in order to see.  Finally, when it was all over the damage to their beautiful boat was sickening.  

Cat grounded in Savusavu

Fortunately for them, there was no real major structural damage.  Most of the damage was numerous punctured holes in the hull above the water line caused by colliding boats and a large 12-inch-long irregular shaped hole through their cabin truck from another boat's bow sprit.  Their stainless steel bow roller is twisted and unrecognizable.  Starboard toe rail was completely ripped off.  Their customized dinghy davits are mangled.  The list goes on and on.  Other boats were not as lucky.  Lesson learned, even if you are on a cyclone mooring and others aren't, leave for a safer harbor.  Also, if the mooring area does not require someone to be responsible for unattended boats, then leave as well for a safer harbor.  Savusavu is a little too lax and random for our liking.  Others however, might disagree, but I bet not many.

Fijian Spirit

As volunteers for Sea Mercy, we were asked to sail to the small island of Makogai, (one of the hardest and most direct hit from TC Winston), just east of Viti Levu.

We were to deliver supplies and make water for the villagers that still remained on the island.

Makogai before Winston

 Once we left Port Denerau, we carefully navigated ninety miles through a maze of coral reefs around the island and made it to the east side of Viti Levu.  From there, we then spent another full day pounding our way across the Makogai channel.  We finally arrived in Dalice Bay at dusk.  From the deck of Long Windid we could see the devastation of the island.  It was obvious to both Dan and I that everything was gone except for a few very well built concrete houses.  The rest of the twenty something homes were blown away.  All the surrounding trees were barren.  Even the palm fronds were blown from their trunks.

Makogai after Winston

We purposely anchored Long Windid further out into the bay than we normally would have because the current was stronger, thus the sea water would be cleaner for making fresh water.  The following morning, Dan and I launched the dinghy and motored over to a worn-out old concrete wharf to introduce ourselves to the island chief.  It is customary to get permission from the chief before entering his village to use the bay for fishing, swimming or any other water activity. We found out the island is the property of the Fijian government, so it doesn't have a chief.   An island manager appointed by officials from Suva, the capital city of Fiji, has been tasked with the responsibility of having the small village operational in just one month.  Giant clams populate the bay making it very popular with visiting divers and the Fiji government wants the tourist trade back as quickly as possible.

Old concrete wharf

We discussed with the island manager, our plans to make approx. 200 gallons of water a day and that we would need at least 20 of the 5 gallon jugs that we were told were delivered to the village days earlier by other boats.  Then we would need a longboat twice a day (morning and afternoon) to pick up the filled jugs to take ashore and deposit the water into large plastic totes, then return the jugs for more water that day.  Great, everyone understands and agreed to the plan.  We went back to Long Windid and began reconfiguring the water maker system to pump directly into the jugs rather than through the boat tanks.  Hours passed waiting for the jugs to arrive.   Dan decided to go ashore once again to try to push the process along.  There he was told the manager was summoned to Suva for an important meeting.  All of our arrangements went with him.  There goes our well devised plan!  While walking through the ruins looking for someone else that might be in charge, Dan met a woman doing her laundry in feces contaminated water coming from one of the large totes we were supposed to fill with fresh water.  The water she was using was designated to be used as toilet water.  She had no other choice than to use it for her washing.  She told Dan that while the other villagers had fled to other islands to stay with family or friends in stronger houses, she and her husband (the village school teacher) and their three children had to wait out the Category 5 Cyclone under their house which was completely leveled from the floor up.

Fijian Spirit

Finally, after a day and a half of searching, the villagers were able to scrounge up only ten 5 gallon jugs for us to use.  To make matters more difficult, there was only one long boat that could be used to randomly pick up and drop off the jugs to us.  While we had planned to make at least 800 gallons of water in the four days we were there, it turned out that we were only able to make 200 gallons in total.

 Although this was a disappointment to us, the Fijians were very appreciative of our being there and our willingness to help.  Through all the devastation of the island, the villagers are a happy and resilient people with a strong spiritual belief.  It won't take long before the village is back to normal.  Their spirit cannot be broken!

There's a Reason

Path of TC Winston thru the Bligh Waters

Like most, I've always had a sense that things happen for a reason.  Today, I am more convinced than ever of that.  Our plans were to be in the village of Savusavu on the island of Vanua Levu, just north of our present location by February 15th, for the remainder of the cyclone season.  A minor auxiliary motor issue kept us here in Port Denarau.  Savusavu is recognized as the best cyclone refuge in Fiji.  We made reservations at the Copra Shed Marina for a special cyclone mooring ball.  The mooring is helix bolted to the bedrock bottom of the bay with all chain rode leading to the ball.  Tropical Cyclone Winston had already passed us approx. 250nm on the west side of the main island as a Category 1 cyclone.  Therefore, we were anxious to get to Savusavu.  Over the next 10 days, Winston ended up going east then north up to Tonga and then decided to head back towards Fiji.  At that time, it looked like it was going to be a direct hit and we were the target. As Winston was heading back, it became a Category 5 cyclone.   On February 19th at high tide, 34 boats made their way up the channel into the mangroves.  All dropped their bow and stern anchors and then tied all four corners of their respective boats to the mangrove trees.  The air was very still, hot, moist and sticky, but we were all safely tucked in for the night.  

Winston from Space

Saturday morning we stripped Long Windid of all canvas, solar panels, headsail, etc. to reduce windage.  More adjustment were then made to the mooring lines before the storm, which was to hit later that evening.  At high tide the boats would move freely within the confines of the lines holding them in place.  However, when the tide would move out, the mono hull boats with their deep keels were left high and dry in the soft mud leaning on their sides.  Tension on the lines needed constant adjusting.  Six o'clock Saturday evening, the winds began to build quickly along with heavy rain.  As the evening turned into night, the winds grew even stronger and Long Windid began to vibrate and shake violently during the high tide cycle.  The howling of the wind thru the mangrove trees and thru the rigging of the boats was deafening.  As Long Windid started to resettle back into the mud, Dan would have to leave the cabin to make his way outside in the wind and rain to adjust the mooring lines.  The adjusting of the lines was an hourly routine.  With Long Windid planted on the mud bottom she was firmly in place and nothing was going to move her.  Inside the boat, rest was almost impossible because we were literally sleeping on the walls of the boat.  Winds in the protection of the mangroves reportedly hit 92mph and were clocked at 119mph at the top of the masts.  We all expected the event to last anywhere from 12-18 hours.  Fortunately, it lasted only seven hours.  Winston raced through the Bligh Waters at twice the speed most cyclones travel.  Sunday morning the winds were back to normal, but the group had to stay in the mangroves another day due to the damage and unrest at the marina.  It took the marina staff a full day to get things back in order to allow us back in.   Once we got word to head back we were out at the next high tide.  During all this, there was not a single scratch on any of the 34 boats.  A few of us had incidents with our dinghies turning over.  No doubt through all the destruction, internet service was down.  Finally, when it did come back, we learned that Savusavu was hit directly and half of the 56 boats were either sunk or destroyed.  Winston is now considered the strongest cyclone in recorded history to make landfall in the South Pacific.  If it wasn't for the motor issue we had, Dan and I would have been right in the heart of all this devastation.  Thus, the reason I believe more than ever, things happen for a reason.  We were all so fortunate to get through this event unharmed.  Unfortunately, there are so many people that weren't as lucky.  Many Fijians right here in Denarau have lost their homes and all their valuables.  Dan and I have joined "Sea Mercy" which is an organization that helps with disaster relief.  We will be taking Long Windid to Makogai Island, population of about 130 people and 120 miles from here to bring food, clothing, and medical supplies. Video of the Island of Makogai after TC Winston Because we have the capability to make large amounts of water for a boat our size, we will be making water at anchor to supply the village.  This is such a disaster, but more than that, it's very personal to both of us.  The people of Fiji have been so wonderful to us that we are hopeful we can help them in some small way.   Planning on leaving here Wednesday with other boats and probably going to make three or four trips before we are relieved by other vessels. This is not going to be an easy task for the Fijians to recover from.  They have months and months of re-building to do to get themselves somewhat back to normal.

For those of you still following us, "thank you" all for your concern and prayers.  We know it worked for us.

It's Harder to Leave

What a difference a few months can make in the South Pacific cyclone belt.  While Dan and I were making arrangements to fly back to the States for the holidays, all of our cruising friends in Fiji were busy preparing their boats to sail south to either New Zealand or Australia, with a careful eye on the weather. One reason they would leave Fiji was because it was predicted to be a volatile cyclone season due to El Nino.  

Port Denarau Marina

Port Denarau Marina usually has a very long waiting list during this time of year.  The place is buzzing with tourist activities, yachties with last minute chores and the Fijian children running around excited to be off from school for summer vacation.  Restaurants along the waters' edge are always packed with out-of-towners enjoying their meals while listening to live music that would play well into the night. The marina was full to capacity with Mega yachts and smaller cruising sailboats.  Outside the harbor, is a shallow, rolling anchorage where dozens of boats waited to either begin their voyage south or for an opening inside the harbor. The weather during early November was hot but bearable with generally a cool breeze off of the South Pacific Ocean. 

We had a wonderful time in the States visiting with everyone and appreciate the hospitality by our friends and family.  As most of you know, Dan being rather odd, doesn't do "sleep-overs" very well.  This was his "first" and  I'm proud of him.  He held up very well.   Of course the fact that everyone made it so comfortable and easy for us had a lot to do with it.  "THANK YOU" all.

Jack's Birthday Party while in the states

  

After two months, we returned to Fiji to find the marina and the harbor totally empty except for a few die hard cruisers who decided as we did, to stay and explore the rest of Fiji during a more casual and relaxing time of year.  Weather however, is much hotter and the humidity is far greater. We are now in the middle of Fijis summer months.  The children are now back in school and the few restaurants that remain open, close early.  Dan and I decided to take advantage of this slow period and have a few repairs done on the boat.  Long Windid was hauled out of the water and had a new cutlass bearing installed with new bottom paint.  She has been polished and waxed and the headsail has a new UV protective cover.  In early April, the standing rigging will be replaced with new Hamma X stainless steel rope wire and new turnbuckles.  All this in preparation for the trip to Hawaii in early May.  Meanwhile, we are just waiting for "Winston", a tropical cyclone that developed just north of us 10 days ago and circled the western portion of Fiji.  It's now dancing east of us in the Kingdom of Tonga.  "Winston" is projected to make its' way back to Fiji later this week.   We are now pinned down here in Port Denarau unable to move until it passes or dies out.  As hard as it is to get into Port Denarau, it seems even harder to get out.  I can think of worse places to be.